Author Archives: Maurice

  1. My Paisanos, Mexican-American Wine Makers

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    Mexican American Wine

    On Saturday, July 19th I connected with some of the most humble and talented wine makers in Napa Valley.  I am happy to call them my paisanos.  For two years I have been working with Tom Bracamontes of Total Brand Alliance and Latin American Wine Makers Alliance in creating an event which would showcase and honor the hardworking Mexican-American wine makers from Napa Valley.  Finally, we did it!  It was a great success!  At Island Prime restaurant,  overlooking the San Diego bay, the wine makers sat in a panel where they told their stories of grape pickers to wine makers.  Later that evening we drove North to Vintana in Escondido for a walk around tasting where they engaged one on one with guests and shared their wines and stories.  I was blown away by the positive responses from our guests and winemakers.  Everyone had an amazing time.

    During my introduction I touched on why Tom and I decided to bring 8 winemakers to San Diego.  Many of you have read my blog post and seen the video about the history of San Diego wine.  Without San Diego, Sonoma and Napa would have not been producing wine. The first grapes were planted here.  The fathers of California wine, Agoston Harathzy and Cyrus Alexander first came to San Diego before moving North to profit from the Gold Rush.  At that time, California was Mexico.  General Mariano Vallejo invited the Americans to come to California, offered them land to harvest grapes. Americans had to become Mexican citizens to own land.  The process was fairly easy, because the Mexicans welcomed them with open arms.  As history would have it, it was not enough for the Americans and they wanted it all.  Hence, the Bear Flag rebellion occurs and with the help of indigenous people, they overthrew the Mexicans.  In a dramatic change of events, Mexicans became second class citizens.

    As time passed by, Americans found the need to continue to expand their power and went over seas to join the wars in Europe.  When World War II started, many American youths joined the army.  This left a void in the labor force in California’s agricultural industry which needed to support the war effort.  The Bracero program brought many Mexicans back to the U.S. to work.  These laborers were under paid, worked in dangerous conditions and faced much discrimination.  Problems escalated when American soldiers returned home to find an increase in Mexicans in their towns.  Tensions were high and many Mexicans suffered from discrimination from the police, press and neighbors.  However, this labor force had now become a necessity for the agriculture business.  These Mexicans worked hard and earned less.  The economics was simple, keep them working as contracted slaves and see profits soar.

    Many of the wine makers’ fathers came to the U.S. during this time.  They ended up in Napa picking grapes.  They put their head down and worked, paid close attention to the vines and learned how to make wine.  Their children have carried on their family’s legacy and have continued the business in honor of their fathers.  Their strong work ethic has paid off in the form of solidifying relationships with the land and other wine makers and growers in the valley.  Today, they are making wines with the same fruit that the most glorified wineries use.  However, their end product is one of pure heart and soul and zero marketing.

    A question that was asked during the seminar was, “Why would we, as consumers looking through a wine list, order a bottle of one of the unknown Mexican-American wines versus one that we are familiar with such as Caymus?”

    Ignacio Delgadillo of Delgadillo Cellars answered, “because at the end of the day you are getting a better value for the same or better quality of wine.”

    However, I liked the reply of one of the guests who said to me later, “It’s like deciding where to eat.  Do you decide to go to that hole in the wall Italian restaurant nobody knows, where the owner came straight from Italy and cooks home cooked Italian meal? Or do you go to  Olive Garden?”  Clearly, it is the same decision you make when choosing a wine which has been hand crafted with heart and soul versus one manufactured to meet the marketing behind a label.

    We also touched on the difficulty of distribution and marketing for these small production wineries.  Juan Puentes, of Honrama Cellars put it, “It was so much easier when I made wine without a label and sold to my friends and acquaintances.  But once I got a label and paid for permits and licensing fees, selling the wine became much more difficult.”

    The Mexican-American wine makers struggle to compete in The Napa wine market saturated with large mega wineries and corporations pumping out juice for labels with large marketing budgets.  The price of land drives the price of the wines in Napa, but some seem to think that because they are rich and build an extravagant winery, they deserve to charge more for their wines.  Mega wineries and “cult” wineries hire the most sought after wine makers, viticulturists and consultants to build their brands. The opposite is true for my paisanos, the Mexican-American wine makers.  They are grassroots.  They have the “hands on” knowledge of the land and the vines.  They carefully craft their wines to fit their personal style.  They don’t have a label that needs to conform to their marketing teams year and year out.  The wine in the bottle is a direct result of their hard work, soul and art.

    Enrique Lopez and Rosaurra Segura from Encanto Vineyards specialize in Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.  Enrique has been managing vineyards for so long that he knows the fruit so well and what he can and cannot do to the wine.  Rogelio from Volcan Cellars not only makes a robust high elevation Napa Cabernet, but he also makes wine in the Guadalupe Valley and grows avocados in Michoacan. He is a true man of the land.  Ignacio Jr. and Ignacio Sr. of Delgadillo Cellars make a wine that is not released until it is ready to drink.  Their latest release is 2005, a wine that has held its color, fruit, tannins and acidity.  Hugo of Maldonado Family Vineyards continues to craft Chardonnay that rival Peter Michael and Konsgaard.  They are rich, robust and more importantly retain generous acidity.  Oscar Renteria from Renteria Wines, has hired Karen Cullen to produce elegant and feminine wines from the fruit grown from his own hands.  Eric, the young son of Ignacio at Gallegos Wines is proud to represent wines that show typicity.  His relationship with ex-roommate Garret Boekenoogen has allowed him to make a Pinot Noir that some people at the seminar said it was the best Pinot they have ever tasted.  Juan and Miriam Puentes make Cabernet, damn good Cabernet that is approachable and honors their father, Honorio Ramirez Mata.  Lastly, Mario and Gloria Bazan of Mario Bazan Cellars work as a team to craft a Napa Cabernet which shows the magic of Mario’s workmanship and captures the true essence of Napa Valley.

    I am so happy to have spent the day with these wine makers sharing their stories to an eager public.  I hope that we begin to see a trend where consumers start to support my paisanos, the under dogs.  The only thing missing from these producers, excluding Maldonado, is the word “Family” on the label.  These are truly family owned and run wineries.

     

  2. Mexican-American Winemakers Unite to talk About Wine

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    Mexican-American-Winemakers

    Cheech and Chong once sang, “Mexican-Americans…don’t like to get in gang fights…they like flowers and music and girls’ named Debbie and wine”.   The wine part I had to slip in because I am Mexican-American and I like flowers, music, I knew a girl named Debbie and I love wine.  I bet the same could be said for the 8 Mexican-American winemakers that are coming to San Diego on July 19th.  I teamed up with wine promoter, Tom Bracomontes from Total Brand Alliance and the Latin American Wine Marketing Alliance to bring 8 Napa Valley wineries and their Mexican American winemakers  here to San Diego for two amazing events.

    On Saturday, July 19th from 12-2pm at Island Prime, there will be a class and tasting with the winemakers offering insight to their lives, wine styles and future of the Napa Valley through the eyes of Mexican-Americans.  The winemakers will then head to North County and pour their wines from 6-8pm at Vintana in a walk around tasting.  All of the Mexican-American winemakers make small production wines and some of which have never been sold in San Diego.

    Why me?

    As I mentioned before, I too am Mexican-American.  Most people probably would not believe me, I usually get called Italian or Middle Eastern.  Well my name doesn’t help.  Maurice DiMarino.  It sounds like I am a French-Italian.  Here is a brief history about my background.  My mother was born in Camargo, Chihuahua and my father in Jerez, Zacatecas.  My mother is a very light-skinned Mexican, mostly with Spanish blood.  My father was a dark-skinned Mestizo with Huichol Indian blood.  I turned out a fair-skinned, Moor looking fellow.  I was born in San Diego as Maurice Ramirez, while my parents were living in Tijuana and my mother was studying French.  After my birth, we moved to Jerez, Zacatecas where my father was building a hotel.  Things did not go as planned, and when I was of school age my mother brought my brother, my sister and me back to the U.S. to start school.  My parents soon divorced.  When my mother re-married we took our stepfather’s name, hence DiMarino.

    I still remember when we first came to San Diego.  We were living with my grandmother in a one bedroom hotel room downtown next to the fountain at Horton Plaza.  Very different from the small town in Jerez.  I did not speak English, and felt like an outsider especially when there were so many blonde kids in my pre-school class.  I can still remember learning “one little…two little…three little Indian” song and looking around and wondering where the Indians were.  I learned English at school, but we spoke Spanish at home.  It was long before I just wanted to speak English.  I felt embarrassed when my mother would speak Spanish to us in public.

    As I grew older I started to connect with my Mexican roots more than being an American.  However, I was no longer a Mexican.  My family from Mexico called me Gringo, so I did not fit in with Mexican’s in Mexico.   Because I received my mother’s fair skin, I did not have problems fitting in here.  However, I didn’t feel as though I really belonged.  I was raised differently, with different values. My Mexican-American classmates thought I was Italian.  I am sure many Mexican-Americans have felt the same way. They don’t fit in Mexico and they don’t fit in the U.S..  I was always fascinated with this.  Then I got into wine.  There are not that many Mexican-Americans in the wine business.  Although they were essential in creating the wine business through their labor, we don’t see many Mexican-American sommeliers, wine collectors, wine writers, wine salesmen or for that matter, winemakers.

    When I met with Tom Bracomontes, he had just finished establishing a Mexican-American winemaker alliance.   Tom and I decided to create an event where California wine began, San Diego.  It would feature  the men and women whose families help start the wine revolution.  We have planned this event for over a year.  I am thrilled that it is finally here.  Eight winemakers will discuss their family’s history, their stories as growers and how through hard work and perseverance they now own their own wineries.  Over the years I have come across a handful of Mexican-Americans in the wine industry.  However, there are not many.  The Mexican-American winemakers’ perspective will be insightful and unique.

    Meet the Mexican-American Winemakers…

    Encanto Vineyards

     Enrique Lopez & Rosaurra Segura owners of Encanto Vineyards are first generation Mexican-Americans producing Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir & Cabernet Sauvignon. They make 600 cases.  Their winemaker, Rudy Zuidema will not be in attendance.  Enrique started working at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in 1987.  In 2000 he formed Servin-Lopez Vineyard Management and today manages the vineyards for Schafer, Donmum and Ehlers.

    Gallegos

    Eric Gallegos from Gallegos Wines will be representing his family winery. His father, Ignacio Gallegos Sr. arrived in Napa as part of the Bracero Program from his home, Michoacan Mexico.  The Bracero Program was a program in 1942 that contracted laborers from Mexico to come into the United States to work.  Ignacio created the Gallegos Vineyard Management which manages 100 acres in Napa Valley including Somerston & J.J. Cohn.  The family winery, Rancho de Gallegos is located in the Rutherford Bench and produces 1,000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,  Petit Sirah & Cabernet Sauvignon.

    honrama cellars

     Juan & Miriam Puentes are the owners of JP Honrama Cellars.  Juan is also the winemaker.  The winery’s name comes from Miriam’s father, Honorio Ramirez Mata.  Honorio came to the U.S. in search of work through the Bracero program.  He had a strong work ethic which allowed him to catch the eye of winemakers.  He eventually worked closely with Charlie & Chuck Wagner of Caymus.  Although Honorio never produced a wine himself, a few years after he passed away, Juan Puentes honored his wife Miriam and her father by launching Honrama Cellars on February 14, 2011.

    Maldonado Vineyards

     Hugo Maldonado will be representing Maldonado Family Vineyards, a winery co-owned with his wife, Lidia.  His father, Lupe Maldonado was the vineyard manager at Newton Vineyards for over 30 years.  He eventually turned the reigns over to Hugo.  Today, Hugo manages vineyards for Luc Morlet of Peter Michael, Hartwell Vineyards and Alpha Omega.  Their family winery produces 7,500 cases of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Red Blend and Cabernet Sauvignon.  They have received high accolades for their Chardonnay.  They constantly receives 90-94 pts from the Wine Spectator and in 2004 the “los Olivios”  Chardonnay was poured at the White House.

    Bazan Cellars

     Gloria Bazan co-owner of Mario Bazan Cellars will be her representing the wines of her and her husband, Mario.  Their winemaker is David DeSante and they make 1,000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc & Cabernet Sauvignon.  Mario is from Oaxaca and has worked for over 20 years with premier wineries such as Joseph Phelps, Robert Mondavi Winery, Opus One, To-Kalon and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.  He began his vineyard management company in 1997 and in 2005 founded Mario Bazan Cellars.  In 2007 he received 90 pts from both the Wine Spectator and Wine enthusiast.

    Renteria Wines

    Tom Bracomontes founder of the Mexican-American Marketing Alliance will be sitting in for Oscar & Denise Renteria from Renteria Vineyards.  In 1987, Salvador Renteria launched Renteria Vineyard Management.  It was the first Mexican owned vineyard management company in Napa.  Today it is the 3rd largest in Napa Valley.  Their client list includes Rombauer, Frank Family, Chiarello, Duckhorn, Patz & Hall and Andy Erickson.  Oscar and Denise formed Renteria wines and contracted famed winemaker, Karen Culler.  In 2013 they purchased the Brown Ranch in Carneros and  will soon produce their first estate wines.

    Volcan Cellars

     Rogelio Morales, owner and winemaker of Volcan cellars will be representing the winery owned by he and his wife, Flor.   Rogelio also came from Michoacan in 1988.  Immediately he began to work in the vineyards at Spring Mountain Winery.  In 1992 he became the cellar master at Spring Mountain Winery.  By 2011 he was appointed assistant winemaker.  He produces 250 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon of his own wine, Volcan.  The wine is named after the volcano in his homeland, Paricutín.

    Delgadillo

     Ignacio Delgadillo Jr from father and son owned winery, Delgadillo Cellars will be in attendance to support his father, Ignacos Delgadillo Sr.  The senior Delgadillo is the winemaker and makes 250-500 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon.  They differ from many other wineries in that they believe in extended aging.  On average, the Delgadillo Cabernets are aged for nearly 8 years before they are released to the public.  The 2005 will be tasted which is their current release.  Señor Delagdillo was the cellar master at Freemark Abbey for 20 years and helped craft the “Bosche Vineyard” Cabernets.

     

    For tickets to the Island Prime Winemaker Discussion Panel and Tasting click here:

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    For tickets to the Vintana walk around tasting click here:
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    Mexican-American Winemakers

  3. Tripping on Acid All Summer Long

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    Riesling Acid Test

    Another summer is here and we at the Cohn Restaurant Group will be tripping on acid all summer long.  Come on, get real! We are not Deadheads.  I am not talking about Ken Kesey and Tom Wolf’e’s Acid Bus.  I am talking about Riesling!  Yes, that delicious grape that makes my mouth-water.  Riesling has so much acid that it makes me feel nothing but love and peace.  After a glass of Riesling, everything is all right.  The sky lights up, the stars broaden and spicy food becomes bearable.  All summer long, Island Prime, 333 Pacific, Sea 180 Coastal Tavern, 100 Wines and Vintana will be serving at least 3 Rieslings by the glass.  Each restaurant will have a special day devoted to Riesling.  If you are one of those people who thinks Riesling is just a sweet grape, come on and jump on our bus and we will open the doors of perception.

    summer of riesling

    Riesling is probably the most misunderstood grape by the public, yet the most revered grape by professionals.  To really see the magic of Riesling, you need to drink German Riesling.  To get a high beyond hallucinations, drink dry German Riesling.  You cannot explain it, it cannot be put into words.  Sure, I can write…”mouthwatering, intense concentration, with a hint of sweet honeyed fruits”, but you will never fully understand it if you don’t inhale.  Yeah, this summer inhale Riesling!  Snort Riesling! Eat Riesling!  There is not a better time of the year to indulge.  Forget the summer of ’69, they had it all wrong.  They will be making movies about the summer of ’14.  It is the summer that Riesling takes over America.

    During the world cup, put your beer to the side and try Dr. Herman Erdener Treppchen Kabinett instead.  While enjoying barbecue during the Fourth of July, try Hans Lang Charta from the Rheingau.  While the kids are at summer camp and you get a few hours to yourself, explore Huber Austrian Riesling.  When you get back to your towel after a couple of hours of surfing, secretly pop open a bottle of Dr. Konstantian Finger Lakes Riesling.  When invited to the many wedding you will attend in August, bring your Barth Sekt and pour it for the toast.  This summer, there is a time and place for Riesling, ALL SUMMER LONG!

    Last year I was enamored with Riesling that I wrote her a love letter.  If you missed it, here it is again.  Read it, and drink a glass of Riesling.  So let’s get on the Riesling Bus this summer and take the Electric Riesling Acid Test.  I want to see everyone tripping on acid this summer.

    summer-of-riesling

  4. Vino and Views, a Chilean Wine Seminar

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    chilean wine

    One of the most popular seminars I have given has been the Chilean wine seminar.  A few years ago, Prime Cru members learned about the history and about the present day wine culture of Chile.  I had such a great response, that I have decided to give this seminar again.  This time, however, a change of locations.  Last time we were at Island Prime overlooking  the bay.  This time I have moved to our new restaurant Sea180 Coastal Tavern sitting right on the sands of Imperial Beach.  Since Chile is a coastal country it only makes sense to give the class near the water.

    The class itself will take place in the hotel’s conference room.  There, we will taste 10 wines from 10 different regions and learn what makes Chile so diverse and special.  We then will move on up to the Alta Mar Rooftop patio for a walk around tasting revisiting some of the wines from the seminar and exploring other wines from the producers at the seminar.  The  Sea 180 kitchen will offer hors d’oeuvre for everyone to enjoy.  If you so happened to have attended one of the previous Chilean wine seminars, this one will be SO much better.  We will have twice the amount of wine with amazing views of the Pacific Ocean.

    I have been on many wine trips around the world, however, the Chilean wine trip was very special.  It is the one trip that remains close to my heart. Maybe it is because of the great company, four sommeliers from around the country, Nichelle Ritter (Texas), Rebecca Chappa (California), Jill Zimorski (D.C. at the time) and Chris Lavine (California).  The five of us had an amazing 11 days of visiting regions, wineries and wine makers.  The small group size allowed to interact with some of the top wine makers such as Philipe Tosso & Marcelo Retamal on a more personal level.  In fact, we will have Marcelo’s wines at the seminar, DeMartino.  Other wines featured on June 28th are Valdivieso, Emiliana, Carmen, Arboleda, Odjfell, Penalonen and Meli.  A Saturday afternoon never seemed so great!

    If you would like to attend, can buy your tickets here.  Hurry as this seminar has sold out every time!

    Buy Tickets

  5. FIFA World Cup Wine Flights

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    world cup wine flights

    The 2014 FIFA World Cup is right around the corner.  I cannot wait!  It is the only time of the year that I wake up at 4 am in the morning to watch a soccer game.  And this year it means a lot more to me than in years past.  Reason being my wife is Brazilian.  She is from the south of Brazi, from a small town bordering Brazil and Uruguay, Santana do Livramento. Her family are die hard Gremio fans.     Her mom was born in Uruguay.  She spent many summers in Montevideo.  This being said, her allegiance belongs to two teams, Brazil and Uruguay.  Prior to meeting my wife I would root for France, Spain and of course the USA.  We’ve been married 10 years now, so I have moved away from rooting for European teams and root for Brazil and Uruguay.  Especially since Jose Mujica took the presidential office in Uruguay.  He is so damn cool!

    Everyday my father in law and my wife share the news from Brazil with me.  It doesn’t look good.  The other day he sent us a video of the subway system in Sao Paolo.  People were trampling all over each other.  The subways apparently stopped running and there was mayhem.  When I was there a few years back, I could not see how Brazil would be able to get ready to host so many people by 2014.  And from the looks of it, not sure they can.

    Instead of getting all worked up about the potential dangers of the FIFA World Cup, I decided to make this tournament festive for all of us watching it on the screen.  This year the Cohn Restaurant Group will be featuring World Cup Wine Flights!  So if your favorite team loses on the field, you have another chance to win.  The countries will go head to head in a wine flight.  The best wine wins.  It is a good time to get acquainted with some of the wine-producing nations we never see.  The flights are real matches.  They cost $10/flight.  There are four flights of two wines each to choose from.  How many of you have had wines from Uruguay?  Better yet, how many of you have had Brazilian wine?  Well this is your chance to see how these wines fair with other more well-known wine regions.

    The FIFA World Cup Wine Flights begin at kick off, June 12th and go on through July 13th.  You can stop in at Sea180 Coatsal Tavern, Island Prime & C-Level, 100 Wines Hillcrest or Vintana in Escondido during the World Cup and enjoy a unique flight.  For more information on the wines being served, contact maurice@dinecrg.com.

     

    world cup wine flights